You can see the Azerbaijani military position, 200 metres away across a field of mud and snow, past two rusting tanks, through a slit in the Armenian bunker.
The Armenians say the Azerbaijanis are lousy shots, but they warn you to duck quickly in case they open fire.
The frontline of Europe's oldest ongoing conflict, a few hours by plane from France or Germany, looks like a scene from World War I.
The Armenians have dug trenches along the 200-km line of contact.
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Already a member? Login hereAndrew Rettman is EUobserver's Foreign Affairs Editor. He has been writing about foreign and security affairs for EUobserver since 2005. He is Polish but grew up in the UK. He has also written for The Guardian, The Telegraph, and The Times of London.