Storks fly overhead and apricot trees line the road from Yerevan to Amberd, the home town of Yepraksi Gevorgyan, one of 33 living witnesses of the Armenian genocide.
The 107-year old has blue eyes, unlike most Armenians, and speaks in local dialect, seldom heard in the capital city.
She shows her age when she talks about Aram I and Karekin II, the prelates of the Armenian church, whom she saw on TV last Thursday (23 April) during the genocide centennial.
"They're good boys...
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Andrew Rettman is EUobserver's foreign editor, writing about foreign and security issues since 2005. He is Polish, but grew up in the UK, and lives in Brussels. He has also written for The Guardian, The Times of London, and Intelligence Online.